Helpful tips on the installation:
~We have a thick gusset on the steering arm.  This (currently) eliminates the use of the steering stop that is on the stock strut rod bushing.  So on the 67-70 you will need to cut it off the strut rod.  On the 65-66 you can just take off the extra sheet metal bracket.
 
~On OUR cars we have welded in a sheet metal flat plate on the FRAME RAIL so the tire has something to rub against in full lock U turns.  Just a suggestion.  We plan to eventually have a NEW strut rod and steering stop (Jan 2021).
 
~We are not sure if Wilwood has changed their hubs over the past few years but we have gone from not having enough threads to having too much thread behind the castle nuts.  The good news is that it only requires an extra washer or 2 in this case.
 
~We can accommodate the larger Wilwood brake kits on a SPECIAL ORDER.  We can now do the 13″ & 14″ rotor kits.  Please email or call in before you place the order or get brakes because it is not an off the shelf item for Wilwood but Wilwood has a combination that works!
 
~Updates, we have gone to a 3/8″ thick brake bracket tab. NOTE: we had 1/4″ brackets out of mild steel that worked.  The issue is that people over tighten them and they strip as they are in mild steel.   The torque specs are 25lbs.  **If you are at all concerned with the threads, you can put a lock nut on the back side and or use loctite on the extra nut.
 
~Ball joint tapered holes have been a mysterious issue. Initially we had people calling us saying the lower ball joints would not come up into the hole enough to get the cotter pin in through the castle nut.  This is really strange because the upper & lower ball joints we had been using were the same but the OEM replacement lower ball joints that came from Asia (which has been the only place to get them), may not have been consistent.  So, we reamed the ball joint holes deeper to accommodate for this inconsistency.  NOTE: If you get paint or powder coating into the holes, the ball joints will not enter enough and you will have the issues as we did.
 
***THESE spindles have been made for OFF ROAD USE.  We designed them for our autocrossing and track day cars.  The shop in Michigan that makes them makes spindles 5 days a week for OFF ROAD RACING.

1″ Drop Spindles for 1965-70 Ford Mustangs

$899.00

Sold as a pair

Maier Racing has been working on a NEW 1″ drop spindle for the 1965-70+ Mustangs.

1) We took a 1967 spindle design and changed it over to a 70-73 snout (bigger bearings).

2) We can sell them with or without brake mounts. The current off the shelf item is compatible with Wilwood 140-12945 brakes and hubs.

3) We moved the steering pick up point in 3/8″ for quicker steering and to help with tie rod end clearance.

4) We raised the snout 1″ to lower the car 1″.

5) No need for the Shelby drop.  keep the stock geometry for the upper and lower control arms.  In some tire combinations this may be good for you.  The big 315 x 18 tires may need less camber gain than the older Blue Streak type big side wall tires.

6) Not every rim but… we have 18″ wheels fitting over the upper ball joint and you can get bigger wheels under the car.  In some cases you can get as much as +2″ of rim inboard.  1965 Mustang with 18 x 275 tires with stock or “minimal” massaging on the fender lips.

7) Wilwood Brake kit 140-12945 (6 Piston, 12″ rotors)

8) 3/4″ fine castle nut, 1967 Tie rod end.
9) ***If you are looking for the right bearing and races. L68149 & L68110 (large)… (Small) LM12749 & LM12710

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